A Pilgrimage to the Holy Cities of Najaf and Karbala: Reminiscences

A few years back, in November 2017 to be precise, Rashida went on a pilgrimage to Najaf and Karbala in Iraq. Rashida is a Shia Muslim belonging to India’s Dawoodi Bohri community and Najaf and Karbala are two of Shi’ism’s holiest sites.

Rashida very kindly narrated to me, for the benefit of Winnowed’s readers, her experiences during her pilgrimage.

Winnowed: Please tell me, why are Najaf and Karbala considered holy sites?

Rashida: Before I explain why Najaf and Karbala are considered the most holy sites for Shia Muslims, I should briefly explain the schism that arose within the Ummah after the Prophet’s death, the distinction between Sunnis and Shias and the battle of Karbala.

We Shia Muslims consider Prophet Muhammad’s (PBUM) cousin, son-in-law and companion Ali (PBUM) to have been appointed as the successor to the Prophet (PBUM). For us, Ali (PBUM) was the first Imam. Sunni Muslims consider Abū Bakr, Umar ibn al-Khattab and Usman ibn 'Affan as the first three caliphs, and Imam Ali to be the fourth Caliph. We Shias do not recognise the legitimacy of Abū Bakr, Umar ibn al-Khattab and Usman ibn 'Affan. Since we believe Ali was the Prophet’s designated successor, he’s our first Imam. Imam Ali had married the Prophet’s daughter Fatimah and their eldest son Hassan became the second Caliph (for the Sunnis, he’s the fifth caliph).

Ever since Usman ibn 'Affan was assassinated, there was a Fitna or civil war amongst the Arabs. Imam Hassan entered into a peace treaty with Mu’awiya in 661 AD, whereby Iman Al-Hassan abdicated and ceded power to Mu’awiya on condition that he would be a just ruler and would not have the power to establish a dynasty. However, in total breach of that treaty, in 676 AD, Mu'awiya nominated his son Yazid as his successor. There was resistance from various quarters, including from Hassan’s brother Husein. Mu'awiya died in in April 680 and was succeeded to the Caliphate by Yazid. Hassan was killed and the Imamat went to Husein.

After taking over the reins of power, Yazid tried to force Husein to recognise his authority. Husein wouldn’t give in. There were letters from people of Kufa inviting Imam Husein to that city. So, Husein sent his cousin Muslim ibn Aqil to Kufa to assess the situation there. On hearing from Muslim ibn Aqil that there was considerable support for him in Kufa, Husein left Mecca for Kufa with around fifty men and his family on September 9, 680. As you may know, Mecca is on the Red Sea coast and Kufa, which is in modern day Iraq, is 1,500 kilometres north east of Mecca and is on the banks of the Euphrates. Before entering Kufa, Husein’s group was intercepted by a large army that was commanded by one of Yazid’s loyalists and a series of skirmishes took place. Kufa was cut-off and made inaccessible and so Husein and his followers took a detour to go further north of Kufa. In the meantime, Yazid replaced the governor of Kufa and Muslim ibn Aqil was executed. Al- Husein and his small band of followers halted at Karbala, a desolate place without water, when Husein’s horse refused to move any further. Yazid’s troops encircled Husein’s group and deprived them of access to water.

As destined, the final battle took place on October 10, 680 in Karbala by which time, Husein and his followers had been without water for three days. Husein suggested that his followers should abandon him and make good their escape, but no one did. Those brave men stood their ground and fought bravely till the bitter end. So, for us Shias, Karbala, the place of Husein’s martyrdom, as well as the place where a majority of his family members were also martyred, especially his brother Abbas whose tomb is also in Karbala, is of utmost importance and is one of the most holy places on earth.

Winnowed: Thank you! Now I know why Karbala considered the most holy. But what about Najaf?

Rashida: That’s simple. Najaf is the place where the Prophet’s son in law and cousin, Imam ‘Alī ibn Abī Tālib is buried after he was martyred in Kufa, in the Kufa masjid. The Imam Ali Mosque is the third holiest Islamic site for Shi’ites, the first two being the Masjid al-Haram in Mecca and the Al-Masjid an-Nabawi in Medina.

Winnowed: Is it obligatory for Shias to make this pilgrimage?

Rashida: No, there is no obligation and it is a joy to do this of one’s own free will.

Winnowed: Did you do this pilgrimage on your own or as part of a group.

Rashida: My parents, brother sister in law and I travelled with a group of around twenty-five people from India. It is possible to travel on your own as also. It is advisable to go in a group as everything is planned and the tour leader explains everything to you

Winnowed: Which city did you land in? And which airline did you fly?

Rashida: Iraq Airways and we landed in Najaf, which has an international airport.

Winnowed: Was it a non-stop flight from Mumbai?

Rashida: Yes

Winnowed: How many days did you spend in Iraq?

Rashida: Ten days

Winnowed: Did you stay in hotel at Najaf and Karbala?

Rashida: No, we stayed in a Mussafirkhana in both places. It is possible to stay in a hotel too, but then, for your meals, you would have to go to the Mussafirkhana.

Winnowed: How did you travel from Najaf to Karbala?

Rashida: We drove down in a tempo taxi/bus.

Winnowed: Other than visiting Nafaf and Karbala, did you go anywhere else?

Rashida: We visited the place where Husein’s son Ali Zayn al-Abidin, who succeeded him and became the fourth Imam, stayed after the battle of Karbala. We also visited Kufa, which has the Kufa masjid where Imam Ali was martyred, and certain martyrs tombs in Najaf.

Winnowed: Ever since 2003 when US troops invaded Iraq and overthrew Saddam Hussain, Iraq has been in turmoil. Did you see any sign of civil unrest during your trip?

Rashida: Not at all. Security was very tight everywhere, but we did not feel threatened at any point.

Winnowed: Where there any children in your group? Is it possible to take children along on this trip?

Rashida: Yes there were. All the places we visited are accessible to children and the elderly

Winnowed: What are the most popular dates for this pilgrimage?

Rashida: One sees maximum crowds during Moharram. The tenth day of Moharram is when Husein was martyred and the first of Moharram is the beginning of the Islamic calendar. So, those ten days are very crowded as well the forty days after Husein’s death anniversary.

Winnowed: What was the weather like during your visit? Was it very hot?

Rashida: I travelled in November, when winter was about to set in. So, it was very pleasant. It even rained a couple of times.

Winnowed: Were there many Indians there? Which nationality had the biggest representation when you visited Karbala and Najaf?

Rashida: There were many Indians, but Iranians were the most numerous, which is hardly surprising since Iran has the biggest Shia population in the world. Amongst others, there were many Iranians walking from Najaf to Karbala, to show their devotion to Ali, Hasan and Husein.

Winnowed: Did you have trouble following signs? Were the signs in English too?

Rashida: Not at all. All signs were in English too, in addition to Arabic.

Winnowed: If there anything that, with the benefit of hindsight you could have done differently, what would that be?

Rashida: Nothing that I can think of.

Winnowed: If you could make a request to the Government of Iraq with respect to facilities for pilgrims to these two holy sites, what would that be?

Rashida: I had no complaints whatsoever. I guess since I travelled in a group where everything was organised as to food, sleeping arrangement and travel, I did not find anything missing. Pilgrims who travel independently might have a different view.


Photo credits: Wikipedia/internet