Showing posts with label Iraq. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Iraq. Show all posts

Saturday, 26 June 2021

A Pilgrimage to the Holy Cities of Najaf and Karbala: Reminiscences





A few years back, in November 2017 to be precise, Rashida went on a pilgrimage to Najaf and Karbala in Iraq. Rashida is a Shia Muslim belonging to India’s Dawoodi Bohri community and Najaf and Karbala are two of Shi’ism’s holiest sites.

Rashida very kindly narrated to me, for the benefit of Winnowed’s readers, her experiences during her pilgrimage.

Winnowed: Please tell me, why are Najaf and Karbala considered holy sites?

Rashida: Before I explain why Najaf and Karbala are considered the most holy sites for Shia Muslims, I should briefly explain the schism that arose within the Ummah after the Prophet’s death, the distinction between Sunnis and Shias and the battle of Karbala.

We Shia Muslims consider Prophet Muhammad’s (PBUM) cousin, son-in-law and companion Ali (PBUM) to have been appointed as the successor to the Prophet (PBUM). For us, Ali (PBUM) was the first Imam. Sunni Muslims consider Abū Bakr, Umar ibn al-Khattab and Usman ibn 'Affan as the first three caliphs, and Imam Ali to be the fourth Caliph. We Shias do not recognise the legitimacy of Abū Bakr, Umar ibn al-Khattab and Usman ibn 'Affan. Since we believe Ali was the Prophet’s designated successor, he’s our first Imam. Imam Ali had married the Prophet’s daughter Fatimah and their eldest son Hassan became the second Caliph (for the Sunnis, he’s the fifth caliph).

Ever since Usman ibn 'Affan was assassinated, there was a Fitna or civil war amongst the Arabs. Imam Hassan entered into a peace treaty with Mu’awiya in 661 AD, whereby Iman Al-Hassan abdicated and ceded power to Mu’awiya on condition that he would be a just ruler and would not have the power to establish a dynasty. However, in total breach of that treaty, in 676 AD, Mu'awiya nominated his son Yazid as his successor. There was resistance from various quarters, including from Hassan’s brother Husein. Mu'awiya died in in April 680 and was succeeded to the Caliphate by Yazid. Hassan was killed and the Imamat went to Husein.

After taking over the reins of power, Yazid tried to force Husein to recognise his authority. Husein wouldn’t give in. There were letters from people of Kufa inviting Imam Husein to that city. So, Husein sent his cousin Muslim ibn Aqil to Kufa to assess the situation there. On hearing from Muslim ibn Aqil that there was considerable support for him in Kufa, Husein left Mecca for Kufa with around fifty men and his family on September 9, 680. As you may know, Mecca is on the Red Sea coast and Kufa, which is in modern day Iraq, is 1,500 kilometres north east of Mecca and is on the banks of the Euphrates. Before entering Kufa, Husein’s group was intercepted by a large army that was commanded by one of Yazid’s loyalists and a series of skirmishes took place. Kufa was cut-off and made inaccessible and so Husein and his followers took a detour to go further north of Kufa. In the meantime, Yazid replaced the governor of Kufa and Muslim ibn Aqil was executed. Al- Husein and his small band of followers halted at Karbala, a desolate place without water, when Husein’s horse refused to move any further. Yazid’s troops encircled Husein’s group and deprived them of access to water.

As destined, the final battle took place on October 10, 680 in Karbala by which time, Husein and his followers had been without water for three days. Husein suggested that his followers should abandon him and make good their escape, but no one did. Those brave men stood their ground and fought bravely till the bitter end. So, for us Shias, Karbala, the place of Husein’s martyrdom, as well as the place where a majority of his family members were also martyred, especially his brother Abbas whose tomb is also in Karbala, is of utmost importance and is one of the most holy places on earth.

Winnowed: Thank you! Now I know why Karbala considered the most holy. But what about Najaf?

Rashida: That’s simple. Najaf is the place where the Prophet’s son in law and cousin, Imam ‘Alī ibn Abī Tālib is buried after he was martyred in Kufa, in the Kufa masjid. The Imam Ali Mosque is the third holiest Islamic site for Shi’ites, the first two being the Masjid al-Haram in Mecca and the Al-Masjid an-Nabawi in Medina.

Winnowed: Is it obligatory for Shias to make this pilgrimage?

Rashida: No, there is no obligation and it is a joy to do this of one’s own free will.

Winnowed: Did you do this pilgrimage on your own or as part of a group.

Rashida: My parents, brother sister in law and I travelled with a group of around twenty-five people from India. It is possible to travel on your own as also. It is advisable to go in a group as everything is planned and the tour leader explains everything to you

Winnowed: Which city did you land in? And which airline did you fly?

Rashida: Iraq Airways and we landed in Najaf, which has an international airport.

Winnowed: Was it a non-stop flight from Mumbai?

Rashida: Yes

Winnowed: How many days did you spend in Iraq?

Rashida: Ten days

Winnowed: Did you stay in hotel at Najaf and Karbala?

Rashida: No, we stayed in a Mussafirkhana in both places. It is possible to stay in a hotel too, but then, for your meals, you would have to go to the Mussafirkhana.

Winnowed: How did you travel from Najaf to Karbala?

Rashida: We drove down in a tempo taxi/bus.

Winnowed: Other than visiting Nafaf and Karbala, did you go anywhere else?

Rashida: We visited the place where Husein’s son Ali Zayn al-Abidin, who succeeded him and became the fourth Imam, stayed after the battle of Karbala. We also visited Kufa, which has the Kufa masjid where Imam Ali was martyred, and certain martyrs tombs in Najaf.

Winnowed: Ever since 2003 when US troops invaded Iraq and overthrew Saddam Hussain, Iraq has been in turmoil. Did you see any sign of civil unrest during your trip?

Rashida: Not at all. Security was very tight everywhere, but we did not feel threatened at any point.

Winnowed: Where there any children in your group? Is it possible to take children along on this trip?

Rashida: Yes there were. All the places we visited are accessible to children and the elderly

Winnowed: What are the most popular dates for this pilgrimage?

Rashida: One sees maximum crowds during Moharram. The tenth day of Moharram is when Husein was martyred and the first of Moharram is the beginning of the Islamic calendar. So, those ten days are very crowded as well the forty days after Husein’s death anniversary.

Winnowed: What was the weather like during your visit? Was it very hot?

Rashida: I travelled in November, when winter was about to set in. So, it was very pleasant. It even rained a couple of times.

Winnowed: Were there many Indians there? Which nationality had the biggest representation when you visited Karbala and Najaf?

Rashida: There were many Indians, but Iranians were the most numerous, which is hardly surprising since Iran has the biggest Shia population in the world. Amongst others, there were many Iranians walking from Najaf to Karbala, to show their devotion to Ali, Hasan and Husein.

Winnowed: Did you have trouble following signs? Were the signs in English too?

Rashida: Not at all. All signs were in English too, in addition to Arabic.

Winnowed: If there anything that, with the benefit of hindsight you could have done differently, what would that be?

Rashida: Nothing that I can think of.

Winnowed: If you could make a request to the Government of Iraq with respect to facilities for pilgrims to these two holy sites, what would that be?

Rashida: I had no complaints whatsoever. I guess since I travelled in a group where everything was organised as to food, sleeping arrangement and travel, I did not find anything missing. Pilgrims who travel independently might have a different view.


Photo credits: Wikipedia/internet

Sunday, 17 February 2013

Book Review: Damn Few – Making The Modern Seal Warrior, by Rorke Denver



Ever since three US Navy SEALs lying on the fantail of USS Bainbridge downed three pirates holding a hostage inside a cabin in the MV Maersk Alabama, SEALs have become a household name in the world of counter-terrorism. The assault on bin Laden’s compound in Abbottabad only cemented that reputation. In case you’ve wondered what it takes to be a US Navy SEAL and what goes into a making of a SEAL warrior, then Rorke Denver’s book Damn Few is for you. True, there have been a number of books on SEALs before, some of them written by former SEALs. Some months ago, I had reviewed former navy SEAL Matt Bissonnette’s book “No Easy Day” which detailed the raid on Osama Bin Laden’s compound in Abbottabad by SEAL Team Six, of which Bissonnette was a part. No Easy Day expends a lot of energy discussing Navy SEAL tactics and the workings of the mind of a SEAL. Similarly “Seal Target Geronimo”, Chuck Pfarrer’s narrative about the bin Laden raid, though burdened with a number of made-up add-ons, describes SEAL training in good detail. However, Denver’s Damn Few is almost entirely about the making of a SEAL and cuts to the chase right from first page. Also, Denver has been involved in training SEALs and one hears from the horse’s mouth how some men make the cut and some don’t. There are a few snippets of action from Iraq and Afghanistan, but they are just that – snippets – more to illustrate how SEAL training helped them than anything else.

Damn Few is not an impersonal description of SEAL selection process and the training imparted to SEALs. Rather, it is Denver’s very personal story of how a sports crazy boy, not particularly good with Math, brought up by a strong-willed, single mother, motivated by Winston Churchill's writings, ended up as a SEAL. In addition to SEAL training, there are touching tales of Denver growing up with his younger brother, with whom he is very close, bits of family history and how Denver met his wife Tracy.

Like his predecessor Bissonnette, Denver steers clears of politics. This is a soldier’s narrative and it’s written in black and white. They are good guys and there are bad guys and no prizes for guessing who the good guys are. If you are looking for a discussion on American politics or on the decision to invade Iraq or Afghanistan, you will be disappointed. Denver is a soldier who obviously believes in obeying orders – his not to question why.

Denver’s narrative, assisted no doubt by co-author Ellis Henican, a columnist at Newsday, reads very well. The language is simple with an occasional flourish. However, what makes Damn Few stand out from other books about SEALs is that Denver not only trained to be a SEAL, but has been involved in training others and devising training plans. In fact, Denver’s involvement in SEAL training is so total that he allows his readers to be privy to crucial questions such as whether quality will be compromised if the number of SEALs is drastically increased.

In all, Damn Few is an excellent book for any SEAL fan.




Monday, 17 September 2012

Book Review: “Green Zone – Imperial Life In The Emerald City” by Rajeev Chandrasekaran


When the US invasion of Iraq took place in 2003, I was in London, having arrived there less than a year earlier. There were demonstrations and protests against what was described by the left-wing press to be an unfair war against a legitimate government. I did not take part in the protests. This was mainly because I didn’t have much free time. I was doing a one year Masters degree at the LSE. I was about to get married. I was writing my first novel. I had a part-time job. Another reason for not taking part in the protests was that I actually thought something good might come out of the invasion. I had in mind the US track-record in countries such as Japan, Germany and Korea, which were rebuilt largely with American help and assistance. I thought that a country which could implement the Marshall Plan and carryout the Berlin Airlift was very likely to change Iraq for the better and possibly use it as a tool to democratise and improve the rest of the Middle-East. How wrong and naïve I was!

With the benefit of hindsight, I now wish I had taken part in the anti-Iraq protests that took place in London. It is now clear that the Yanks had a plan for invading Iraq, but none for its occupation and administration. The lack of planning and foresight totally destroyed Iraqi infrastructure and its once high standard of living. Not only does Iraq now have a Shia-dominated government that is sympathetic to Iran, it also continues to be very unstable, with Sunnis still fighting the government and Christians being hounded out.

Rajeev Chandrasekaran’s Green Zone was released in 2006/2007 and has been on my reading list for a very long time. Chandrasekaran’s masterpiece only confirms what we all know by now, that just as the Berlin Airlift was America at its finest, the Iraqi occupation displays America at its nadir. Chandrasekaran was the Washington Post's bureau chief in Baghdad in 2003 and 2004 and therefore had firsthand access to the Green Zone, in the heart of Iraq where the Coalition Provincial Authority (CPA) had its head quarters, and the world outside the Green Zone. In chapter after chapter, Chandrasekaran lays bare the ineptitude of the CPA and how Iraq slipped into disaster.

Almost all appointments to the CPA went to Republican Party loyalists who were looking to make some quick money and/or fill up their CVs. Most of them didn’t really care about Iraq or if they did, they went about helping Iraq the wrong way. Some stupid decisions were really, really stupid, like the disbanding of the Baath party and excluding Baath party loyalists from all government posts and the demobilising of the Iraqi army. The US armed forces were much more concerned about maintaining their soldiers in comfort than in rehabilitating displaced Iraqis and rebuilding Iraq. Creating a comfort zone for the soldiers and marines meant serving bacon and other pork products in a country where pork is haraam. The Americans just didn’t care. Contractors siphoned off huge chunks of money using inflated bills.

There were a few stories which, for me, conveyed the sheer tragedy of the Occupation. One was the story of Walid Khalid, an Iraqi who used to work for pizzeria next to the Trevi fountain in Rome. Returning to Iraq after its ‘liberation’ from Saddam, Walid Khalid set up an authentic Italian eatery just north of the Green Zone and waited for the expected American customers to arrive. However, the Americans never came, since they had everything they needed inside the Green Zone, which always had electricity and air conditioning even when the rest of Iraq was starved of power. Then there's the story of a Press liaison officer who could not speak a word of Arabic. At the end of the book, we are told that USD 25 million has been set aside for Iraqi universities. However, Iraqi universities do not get the money which is instead given to US universities which want to establish partnerships with Iraqi institutions! I could go on and on, but I’ll spare you.

Amidst all that rubble, there was one happy ending. This is the story of how a State Department staffer named Alex Dehgan was sent to Iraq to reach out to former Iraqi scientists and re-direct them to harmless avenues, before they were snapped up by the Iranians or others not-so-well-disposed towards America. Chandrasekaran tells us that Dehgan had considerable success since he broke all rules and because he was not part of the CPA.

Towards the end of the book, we see First Sergeant Jerry Swope lead a platoon of soldiers in Humvees to Sadr city to escort and protect three septic tank trucks as they went on a mission to vacuum pools of sewage bubbling from corroded underground pipes. After one round of vacuuming, the Iraqis driving the septic tanks leave, telling Swope that they feared for their lives. Unknown to Swope, the previous night American special forces had arrested Moqtada al-Sadr’s deputy and war had been declared. The Humvees run into an ambush on their way back and many precious lives are lost on both sides. One does wonder how the Americans managed to antagonise the Shi’ites after having liberated them from Saddam.

The story of the Green Zone is the story of human arrogance, greed and corruption. It is also a tragedy.

Friday, 24 September 2010

Book Review: A Journey by Tony Blair




The Journey

It was meant to be “The Journey”, but a last minute editorial change made it “A Journey”. We’ll never know the reason why. Most probably, it was a case of eleventh-hour nerves and a desire to avoid the charge of being pompous. A Journey is a political memoir but Blair does dwell on various aspects of his personal life very often, telling us how became reliant on alcohol at one point. However, many chunks from Blair’s personal life are carefully avoided, such as his recent conversion to Catholicism, though towards the end of the book, Blair says that he has always been more interested in religion than in politics.

What Makes A Politician?

Politics is not for the faint hearted. What is it that makes a man or a woman pursue capricious voters (who are usually interested only in their personal welfare) and make a career out of it? A successful politician has to be someone who enjoys being in the limelight, is willing to be subjected to scrutiny and is good at communicating with the public. A good politician is someone who wants to make a difference. Blair is a successful politician and a good one. Blair wants to make a difference. More importantly, Blair, like any other politician wants the entire credit for what he does. Blair takes his journey very seriously. For him, it is The Journey. Blair believes that he is a man of destiny, a man meant to make a difference to millions of people not only in the UK but also in the rest of the world.

The Ends Justify The Means

In his 700-odd page tome, Blair devotes a fair amount of space to explain how the son of a self-made barrister and Tory politician became interested in politics and joined Labour. Blair is not in politics for power alone. Yes, he is interested in power. The detailed descriptions of his tug of war with Gordon Brown make that amply clear (see the last paragraph). But Blair also believes that he is the best man for the job. When Blair indulges in politicking, he is doing it not just for himself, but for the good of everyone – no sarcasm intended here.

Book Layout

Though this book traces Blair’s political life from his childhood till the time he quit as Prime Minister, it is written thematically, rather than chronologically. For example, there are chapters devoted to the Iraq War, Princess Diana and to the intervention in Kosovo. I should confess that my main motive for reading A Journey was to understand Blair’s rationale for the invasion of Saddam’s Iraq.

Iraq War

Blair makes a special mention of the fact that in February 2003, over a million Britons marched in London against the Iraq war. The million-man march is mentioned more than once. Does this faze Blair? No. To quote Blair, “there had never been a larger demonstration, reminding me of my isolation and the responsibility of the decision I was about to take”. Blair takes responsibility for the decision he took. Does he regret his decision? Would he have done differently with the benefit of hindsight? The answer to both questions is a hesitant No. Blair says that his objective in talking about Iraq is not to persuade his readers of the rightness of the cause, but to merely persuade that such a cause can be made out and that his decision may have been right. Blair takes a great deal of pain to delve into Saddam’s human rights record and the fact that Iraq had a programme for production of chemical weapons. True, they did seriously believe that Iraq still had them – why else would Saddam obstruct UN inspections? However, if Saddam had not been removed from power, Blair believes that Iraq would have once again reverted to its old game and recommenced production of weapons of mass destruction. Many Iraqi children died as a result of malnourishment and lack of medicines during the era of UN sanctions. Whose fault was it? Saddam’s of course, for choosing to not buy food and medicines and wanting to show the world that UN Sanctions were causing deaths. I agree with this bit of Blair’s assessment and analysis, but on the whole, Blair leaves so many questions unanswered. Weren’t their other regimes which had a worse human rights record than Saddam’s Iraq? What about North Korea? Iran anyone?

Blair says that so many people told him that the Shia Iranians would never forge an alliance with Sunni groups in the middle-east. But they did, for short-term tactical reasons. In a way, he makes it clear that the USA and UK could have done better with their predictions for the post invasion scenario. They should have expected the long-oppressed Shia majority to reassert itself and possibly align with Iran. They should have expected Iran to intervene in Iraq so as to build a sphere of influence for itself in Iraq. They should have expected the Al Qaeda to enter Iraq.

Towards the end, Blair gives a clue to the main drivers behind the Iraqi invasion. He says, “the region needed a fundamental change. And this change was to be of a different character. In the 1980s we had armed Saddam as we had the mujahideen in Afghanistan, so as to thwart Iran in the one case and the Soviet Union in the other. It was a tactical move, but a strategic mistake, This time we would bring democracy and freedom. We would hand power to the people. We would help them build a better future. We would bring, not a different set of masters, but the chance to be the masters, as our people are of us. And hadn’t we shown that such idealism was indeed achievable? In Afghanistan they were preparing for their first election, and the Taliban at that time was seemingly banished. In my first term we had toppled Milosevic and changed the face of the Balkans. In Sierra Leone, we had saved and then secured democracy after the ravages of the diamond wars. We had the military might of America, not to say that of Britain and others. There was no way that Saddam could resist….”

In other words, Iraq was do-able. The belief in the existence of weapons of mass destruction created the grounds to do it. In any event, Iran or North Korea or Cuba were not do-able.

UK-USA Special Relationship

Blair takes the special relationship with the US for granted. In any event, he does not take up much space in justifying it. Instead, he says that the British like their leaders to stand tall internationally. Do they? I am not too sure. Blair says “Brits would want to know that in Toulouse people would recognise me. Our leaders should stand out, and if not cut a dash, at least make an impact. The problem is, as time has gone on and the world has changed, and Britain’s relative size and weight have shifted, it becomes harder to do so. Not less desirable, just harder.” One is left with no doubt that Blair wanted to stand tall internationally. “Those who thought that our closeness to America was a problem in the rest of the world, could not have been further from the mark. On the contrary, it gave us immediate purchase. There was no greater nonsense that that our alliance with the US lost us standing in the world. The opposite is the case.” Blair cites the example of Harold Wilson who did not support the US on Vietnam and still lost the 1970 general election.

First Names Please

Blair ranks George Bush very high not only in terms of integrity, but also intelligence. Making a convincing case, Blair says only a very intelligent person could have ended up as the President of the United States of America. Blair refers to George Bush as ‘George’ throughout the book. However, Bill Clinton, who Blair is says he was just as close to and who is ‘progressive’ (while George Bush is admittedly ‘conservative’) is referred to as ‘Bill Clinton’ or ‘President Clinton’ throughout, except when Blair talks of the Monica Lewinsky incident and in a very few others instances. I wonder why. Blair screws up his courage and actually refers to Vladimir Putin as 'Vladimir' a few times. I wish I could have been a fly on the wall and listened to a real conversation between Blair and Putin. ‘Vladimir,..’ Blair begins and holds out his hand with a warm and open smile. ‘Anthony…,’ Putin responds and clasps Blair’s hand, and they start talking earnestly. Was it ever like that, I wonder?

Hilary Clinton

There are very few references to Hilary Clinton, too few I thought, though Hilary assumed office more than a year after Blair resigned as Prime Minister. Blair mentions Hilary’s visit to the UK as the US representative at the time of Princess Diana’s death. And then Blair tells us how Hilary stood by Bill Clinton when the Monica Lewinsky incident broke. Does Blair think Bill and Hilary remain married for political convenience? Do read this book to find out.

Barack Obama

Obama too does not occupy much space in Blair’s journey. Yes, Blair admires Obama’s communication skills and election campaign, but does he ideologically agree with this fellow progressive? For example, Blair praises Obama’s Cairo speech. “The speech was carefully calibrated. The hand of friendship would be offered, even to Syria and Iran. It was in part an apology, and taken as such. The implicit message was: We have been disrespectful and arrogant; we will now be, if not humble, deeply respectful. But join us, if you will.” “The trouble is: respectful of what, exactly? Respectful of the religion of Islam, President Obama would say, and that is obviously right; but that should not mean respectful of much of the underlying narrative, which many within Islam articulate in its politics today.” Mind you, on this issue, I am more with Blair than with Obama as I have explained in one of my earlier posts.

Nicolas Sarkozy

Sarkozy (sometimes Nicolas Sarkozy, sometimes just Nicolas and sometimes just Sarkozy) on the other hand is spoken of with warm admiration. “He was fascinating company – engaging, energetic and with that captivating French bravado around women, life and laughter that I loved. I liked too the fact that he was a ‘my way or no way’ person. He had the spirit certainly to demand change, and to get it or go. And I was very sure that was the only way to get the necessary reforms fast. But, as ever, it is one thing to propose in theory; another to execute in practice. In that first flush of limitless possibility which characterises the new incumbent, I saw something of my own feeling ten years before. ‘It will get tougher,’ I warned him.”

China and…. India

India finds a few mentions, usually in the same breath as China – “possibly we have not yet internalised the true significance of China’s rise (or indeed that of India)”; ”…and will not India and China, each with three times as many citizens as the whole of the EU put together, once their economies have developed sufficiently, as they will do, reconfigure entirely the geopolitics of the world and in our lifetime?”

Israel and Palestine

With regard to Israel and Palestine, Blair says he understands the Palestinian position and finds Israel unreasonable in some respects, but on the whole, he feels that the Palestinians and their supporters are not trying hard enough to find a solution. I fully agree with Blair. During the Israel/Lebanon war of 2006, Blair refused to condemn Israel, though Israel’s actions caused a lot more damage to the Lebanese than Israel suffered on account of Hezbollah’s rockets. “Hezbollah were and are an urban guerrilla movement. They target civilians deliberately. Their weapons are poorer, so they kill relatively few. They assume the posture of the plucky underdogs. Israel is a government with a well-armed and well-trained army and air force. They do not target civilians. But their only weapon, in a civilian setting, where the guerrilla movement is located, is deterrence. Therefore, they use their force to try to deter further attacks. Inevitably, large numbers of civilians are killed. They quickly assume the mantle of oppressors.” I fully agree with Blair’s position and his analysis. I had taken a similar view with respect to Israel’s invasion and bombing of the Gaza strip in 2009.

Pakistan and Kashmir

Kashmir is mentioned a few times in the same breath as other hotspots such as Sri Lanka and Kosovo. Blair tells us of a conversation with Musharraf regarding the linkage between Pakistani nationalism and Islam (General Zia’s doing) which is rather interesting. “The connection between the two, Musharraf explained, had furthered radicalism in the country, heightened the issue of Kashmir and made reconciliation with India harder. ‘Surely’, I said, ‘economic development is the key challenge for Pakistan.’ Of course,’ he said, ‘but the reality is today Pakistani politics is about nuclear weapons and Kashmir.’ What can we do to help?’ I asked, expecting an answer to do with aid or India. ‘Do Palestine,’ he immediately shot back. ‘That would help.”

Gordon Brown

The tussle with Gordon Brown is dealt with at length, the initial friendship, the tussle to be leader of the Labour party as it came close to power in the mid-nineties, the unspoken promise to step down after two terms (was it ever made?), the friendship (almost like a married couple), the quarrels, Brown’s attempt to bully Blair into stepping down….. let me not say anymore. Blair writes very well, in limpid and functional prose which is a pleasure to read. Do read about Blair’s Journey and find out for yourself.